
It Must Be Low On
Freon
How many times have I heard that? The air-conditioner is not
making things cool like it used to, whether it’s the house,
the car, the boat or the RV. Nobody wants to appear as if
they don’t know anything so they need to say something that
shows they are not completely ignorant. Whether it is
wishful thinking or they are simply trying to impress the
service technician so that he will think he is dealing with
a knowledgeable owner and not try to stick them for an
unnecessary expensive repair is a good question, but the
fact is, low Freon is rarely the culprit when the darn thing
just isn’t putting out.
There is one exception though and that is automobile
air-conditioning. Due to the fact that the compressor is
mounted on the engine and the engine vibrates a lot, the
connections to the condenser (the radiator like thing in
front of the real radiator), and the evaporator (the cold
part hidden under the dash) are made of flexible tubing
connected to non-flexible metal fittings. Over time these
flexible lines become not so flexible due to heat and age
and vibration, and the joints leak. This is why you find
charging kits in auto parts stores and you don’t find them
in home hardware stores.
While they all work on the same principle, auto
air-conditioners and home refrigerators use one kind of
“Freon” and home, boat and RV air-conditioners use a
different kind. On older cars and refrigerators, pre 1995,
the systems used R12 and now use R134a and the two don’t
mix, so before you recharge your system with R134a make sure
that is what it takes. The connections for R134a are
different than for R12 so you won’t be able to charge an R12
system with R134a hoses. If you have an R12 system and it
leaks you should get it converted to R134a as R12 is no
longer available at the auto store and is VERY expensive
from a dealer. Getting the conversion will be cheaper in the
long run and is more environmentally friendly according to
the EPA, so do your part for the environment and save
money.
Now if your system is low on gas then that is
not the problem. The problem is you have a leak somewhere in
the system and it needs to be found and fixed before you
recharge it. Being low on Freon is a symptom of another problem
not the problem itself. If it was working one day and not
the next or you recharge it and it all leaks out in a week
then you have a big hole and it should be easy to find, if
it takes three months to leak out you are unlikely to find
it without a leak detector.
On most cars there is a receiver/drier between the condenser
and the evaporator and they have a little sight glass window
in the top through which you can see the liquid Freon on
it’s way to the evaporator. After running the air
conditioner for a minute or so this window should show only
liquid. If you can see any bubbles in the liquid or it seems
foamy then you may be low on Freon.
If you don’t see anything at all you may be completely out
of gas, in which case you will have no cooling, or it may be
completely full and working normally.
On an automobile, if there is still some gas left in the
system, that is if it is working somewhat, with the engine
OFF pour a little soapy water over all the joints that you
can see, metal to metal and rubber to metal, then watch
carefully for bubbles. You might need to wait awhile for one
to form if it is a slow leak. On some compressors the
connections have O-ring seals and these can leak so pour
some there too. There are also dyes and sealers you can buy
in auto stores and on eBay for 134a systems that are fairly
inexpensive so you might want to try that. There are
fluorescent dyes as well but these require a special light
to illuminate them and so the cost is higher. One problem
with the dyes that I’ve found is that if you don’t get it in
properly it can spray all over everything making it totally
useless from then on and if there is a leak it is almost
always on the backside of a fitting or somewhere else where
you can’t see it.
If you do find the leak this way then try tightening the
joint with two wrenches but be careful not to over tighten
as some of these lines are aluminum and break easily. If you
get a little movement then check with the soapy water again,
you might have got it.
The one place you are not going to find a leak this way is
if it is in the evaporator. Because it is hidden behind or
under the dashboard you cannot see bubbles or dyes and need
an electronic leak detector. If you don’t have one then you
are going to have to take it to an a/c guy for him to find
the leak. You might want to do this anyway because you can
have more than one leak particularly on an older system and
he will know where to look.
OK, as I said in the beginning, what if it isn’t low on
Freon?
The compressor is driven by a belt or belts from the engine
and is turned on or off by a magnetic clutch on the front
next to the pulley. When you turn on the air 12 volt power
is sent to the clutch and it engages and the compressor
turns. You should hear a click and then the front face of
the pulley will turn and the hose that goes to the condenser
at the front will get hot and the hose coming back from the
evaporator will get cool. If this doesn’t happen then it may
be a 12 volt power problem. It could be something simple
like the plug-in electrical connector to the compressor has
come loose and reconnecting it solves the problem. I have
amazed a couple of people by fixing a “broken” system just
by doing that. One of them had had a “broken” a/c for
several months and couldn’t afford to take it in to a repair
shop.
If that isn’t the case it could be the high pressure switch
is preventing it from engaging or even a bad fuse but in the
case of the latter the blower usually won’t work either as
they are on the same fuse. Sometimes there is a relay in the
system as well and that could be bad but that is hard to
check for and I am just covering the easy stuff
here.
A high pressure switch disconnects power to the compressor
clutch if the pressure gets too high. This can happen if you
have electric fans and they stop working or if the condenser
is clogged with bugs or anything else you may have picked up
while driving, such as a piece of newspaper or a plastic
bag. Of course if any of these have happened you will have
high engine temperature too. You can bypass the high
pressure switch just to see if is faulty. If it is, then the
clutch will engage when you turn the a/c on and you need to
replace that switch. DO NOT try to run the system without a
working high pressure switch as this can lead to very
expensive problems such as blown hoses and
compressors.
On most auto systems there is a freeze sensor on the output
from the evaporator going back to the compressor. It is
basically a thermostat that senses when it is getting
too cold. This
can happen when it is cool in the vehicle and the fan is on
low speed, or the system is low on Freon. Either
way it also cuts power to the a/c clutch and turns off the
compressor. If the switch is bad or if the wires have become
disconnected the compressor won’t turn on. Always check for
disconnected wires if the a/c doesn’t work right after you
just had some other work performed on the engine such as an
oil change or air filter change or new sparkplugs. It is
very easy for a mechanic or owner to not notice a loose wire
connector when they are struggling with a stubborn bolt or
sparkplug.
One last thing that can throw you a curve is if the system
has a suction pressure regulator in the evaporator. It is
there to keep a constant pressure and temperature in the
evaporator and if it stops working, even when everything
else seems to be right, you will have poor cooling
performance. Not that you usually want
to mess with this as it is buried under the dash but if you
have to, you have to know it’s there.
Always remember to wear protective gloves and glasses when
working with high pressure Freon. A frost bitten finger is
one thing, a frozen eyeball is quite another. Save the ice
for that cold one you are going to have later to celebrate a
job well done!
© Brian Ratcliffe 2008
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